Global Journal of Human Social Science, H: Interdisciplinary, Volume 22 Issue 7

Child Labour in the Fast Fashion Industry, with a Focus on India Naman Khatwani I. I ntroduction hild labour can be found at all stages of the production process in the fashion industry. It can be found during the production of cotton seeds in Benin, harvesting in Uzbekistan, yarn spinning in India, right through to the different phases of putting garments together in factories across Bangladesh. 1 The problem of child labour is rampantly increasing i n the fashion industry since a large part of the supply chain requires low-skilled cheap labour. Child labour is often used by industries because they are seen as obedient workers who can easily be monitored and controlled. While there exist Trade Unions and other formal, if not sophisticated, regulatory mechanisms which allow adult labourers to have some bargaining power, there is no similar system available for children. Further, they are easier to employ and further exploit because they lack the understanding of what they may be entitled to. Employers get away with it because the fashion supply chain is hugely complex and it is hard for companies to control every stage of production. That makes it possible to employ children without big brands and consumers ever finding out. Child labour is often explained to be a by- product of impoverishment. The most common argument that expounds on the widespread nature of child labour is that various families are dependent upon children to earn sustenance. Child labour is hence justified as a necessary evil with the blame centralized on the abject poverty in these societies. In this paper, I shall first analyze why there exists such extensive amounts of child labour especially in the textile sector. This will lead me to focus on various social reasons to employ children in the industry which include the social acceptance, regulatory mechanisms and the logistical convenience. I shall then explore the demographics of the industry and their relevance in the employment of child labour. This will be viewed from the standpoint of the employees and their parents who often promote their children into work. I shall lastly focus on the inefficient regulations in place concerning child labour and how an effective system can be developed. This part shall also look into the reason why 1 https://labs.theguardian.com/unicef-child-labour/ L ast accessed on August 23, 2022. governments may not be inclined towards curbing child labour, and what regulatory steps can be taken. II. C hild L abour in the T extile S ector The cotton industry employs children whose primary job is to transfer pollen from one plant to another. The children are expected to work throughout the day, and because they are in close contact with crops they are exposed to pesticides and insecticides. Further, children are expected to harvest the delicate crop, aside from sowing the cotton in the spring and weeding it in the following months . 2 The next process in the production chain is fabric spinning. In yard and spinning mills as well, child labour is extensively found. Reports suggest that a large majority of the mills employees in India start when they are under 18 . 3 In the next stage, where clothes are put together, Children are again found as the primary employees. This ‘Cut-make-trim’ stage is when clothes are sewed together or accessorized and so on. Employers justifying hiring children at these stages by referring to it as vocational training. However, industries and factories are not the only place where child labour is found. Even at small workshops and home sites, children are found performing delicate tasks such as embroidering, making pleats or sequinning . 4 At these stages, children are generally paid on a piece-based system where every cloth worked on is paid for individually. Hence, they are expected to work hours on a single garment to earn a marginal amount. Child Labour requires a special response system because children are often favoured at various stages of the production process. Some tasks such as cotton picking are considered to be better suited to children than adults owing to their small fingers which do not damage the crop. In a survey conducted in Andhra Pradesh, it was found that children were paid Rs. 20 per day as compared to Rs. 10 per day paid to 2 Secretary of Labour, 2013 Findings on the Worst Forms of Child Labour available at https://www.dol.gov/ilab/reports/child- labor/find ings/2013TDA/2013TDA.pdf L ast accessed on 10th September, 2022 (cached). 3 Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations, Flawed Fabrics The abuse of girls and women workers in the South Indian textile industry available a t http://www.indianet.nl/pdf/FlawedFabrics.pdf L ast accessed on 13th September, 2022. 4 Ibid. C © 2022 Global Journals Volume XXII Issue VII Version I 13 ( ) Global Journal of Human Social Science - Year 2022 H Author: e-mail: naman.khatwani@gmail.com